The Social Contract in a Russian Village: Part Three SitRep Two Years Into the SMO
Spring #3 of the SMO has sprung. This past year has been a defining moment in Post Soviet Russia’s search for meaning, connection, and ownership. The rupture with the West is indisputable forcing everyone to think about their country, their future and make a choice, commit. For some that meant signing a contract to fight.
In Manzherok, a Village in the Altai Republic, spring brought with it news of the loss of our first soldier. He was a veteran, a builder, and, according to the Village chat, initially volunteered to serve in a city reconstruction effort. While in Mariupol, he signed a contract to participate in the SMO and he was killed in the Donetsk Region. Posts with candle icons and words of condolences from neighbors followed the announcement.
For others committing meant leaving but most of those who wanted to leave are long gone. The Levada Center’s March survey supports that assumption recording a 34 year low in the number of respondents who wanted to move abroad, 9%, down from a high of 22% in 2021. In Manjerok, commitment means taking advantage of new opportunities to start your own business or get a new job because they are plentiful and salaries are up.
Until recently, economic development in the region consisted of “green tourism” that allowed people to generate income taking tourists into their home or guest house. Initially this inspired hostility. In 2007, a woman described the problem as jealousy, “people started counting the number of cars parked at a neighbor to see how much money they were making”.
In the 2022 Ria Novosti social-economics and overall ratings the Republic came in at #82 out of 86 regions. On the plus side, the lack of economic development yielded one tangible benefit, Altai remained, one of the most pristine and beautiful places in the world. Sometimes referred to as the Switzerland of Russia, it is thought by some to be the gateway to the Buddist/Hindu spiritual kingdom Shambhala. And into that world stepped Russia’s largest bank, Sberbank.
A number of years ago, young families were encouraged to stay with free plots of land up on the mountain. Their neighbor on the mountain became the Sberbank 5 Star year round Manzherok Resort that currently boasts 30+km of ski trails. Construction of a children’s adventure park and other features will continue on for years. Thousands of people paid holiday rates of $23 a day for ski passes, $13 for night skiing. A four cheese burger costs $9, the same as Fo Bo soup with beef. Manzherok water is $3.30 making classic Coca Cola (still available) a bargain at $2.70.
When the SMO began, the ski lift was operating and the 5 Star Hotel was set to open in a year. The opening was delayed due to sanctions related to the planned Italian interior. Sanctions also moved domestic tourism up the national budget priority list so the building of a four-lane highway through the center of town is in Manzherok’s near future. A week ago, Sberbank became the sole owner of the local airport that will be expanded to accommodate international flights with a focus on China. One lane Village roads have become major thoroughfares as navigators re-route cars away from traffic jams on the current two-lane highway. New chain stores have appeared pushing out or challenging locally owned businesses. All this in a community that only 9 years ago suffered a flood that made it possible for the last people on my street to get indoor plumbing through government disaster relief.
One room 50 year old Village houses are on sale for more than half a million dollars. Only Sber has spent that kind of money buying properties they now need for the ever-expanding resort. The rumored numbers were even higher but there is no evidence of a market for an old village house getting anything like that kind of money. But, expectations are high. That is the Year 3 and moving forward challenge for Russia, making it possible for people to realize their potential, prosper, and feel good about their children’s future.
Last fall the Mayor of 32 years was replaced by a former Sber Resort Manager. All winter rumors were flying, trees were disappearing, and electricity outages were more frequent. But it was the appearance of 3 letters KRT (somewhat analogous to eminent domain) that got everyone’s attention.
The forces in charge now are of a whole other magnitude but an impressive group of individuals has surfaced to represent and defend the interests of residents. Most are small business owners. A few are elected local deputies, one beat a United Russia opponent to become a District Deputy, one serves as monitor for services on the mountain pushing for quick repairs when the electricity, and thus public water, are out. One tried to run for Mayor but his candidacy was disqualified. The rest are just active citizens with skills and knowledge. It would be a mistake to think of these people as oppositionists. These are community and results oriented people with a real sense of ownership.
This new constellation of forces has inspired in form, if not in substance, the appearance of governance. There have been several public hearings and the Regional Deputy appeared to provide an account of his work and respond to concerns about KRT. The school gym was packed for a town meeting where the Mayor, the District Head, and heads of a number of departments responded to questions. The head of development promised everyone that KRT was not being considered for any residential areas. She seemed surprised that people did not share her excitement and belief in the need to respond positively to big interest from outside investors. Residents want more attention paid to their problems and supporting local entrepreneurs. On the way home we passed an electric station flaring out. We reported it and that street spent another February night without electricity.
There are four WhatsApp chats where information exchange and lively discussions take place. Often, they focus on what to do with the cows or wild dogs. Overall, you get the sense that it is the pace and breadth of change that can come without warning, despite all the formal meetings, that scares people. Nobody is against development but they did not expect their way of life to be liquidated.
A week ago, news surfaced in a chat that there will be an architectural code issued and it was suggested that people building wait for the code. Rumor has it green or red roofs and fences. One neighbor commented, “Minimum to paint a new roof is 300,000 r, no one has that kind of money”. Another suggested there be a more comprehensive approach to the code, “For example, in all two-story houses, women must wear red miniskirts, in one-story houses with old slate, they must wear black long skirts and black scarves, men must wear colored shirts, and the administration must wear red caps with bells to make them special. Tourists will be delighted! Also, to make us stand out, we should put a large fly near our noses.”
In April student sociologists patrolled the streets with a questionnaire about development and the Resort. The “for” or “against” options did not provide the kind of nuance that exists here. There was also a focus group in preparation for the upcoming Gubernatorial election. A participant told me none of the 9 people there were happy. The degree of discontent left the moderator struggling to make sense of it all as she asked what type of person would be best for Governor pitching such options as someone with strong federal ties, a leader from a neighboring region etc.
Perhaps expectations are too high on all sides but something is happening in Manzherok. If not a negotiation, there is at least a dance taking place and it brings evidence of an important change. On the train from Moscow to Novosibirsk in February 1992, my coupe mate Baba Masha told me there are two words you need to know to understand Russia, terpellivwi (patient) and peredjit (living through it). This new generation of citizen leaders in Manzherok is patient. They are almost Zen like in their ability to absorb rejection and keep going. What they are not, is willing to live through it. Is it too little too late? Maybe, but it ain’t nothing.
